The cheaper usb dongles should have no problems with the usb-audio module.  Newer chipsets often do things differently and don't work well until someone patches the driver.

If its a bulging capacitor, you can bet money its bad.


Capacitors shown are from left to right: 1) 400V, 6.8uF, 2) 400V 22uF, 3) 1000uF, 10V.... The one of the right is the most critical and exposed to the most heat and is likely to go first.

Wow flooded this morning!

When I ran a forum, I found the spam bots were targeting known script filenames.  Simply going through the php scripts and changing the filenames was enough to break their scripts 100%.  I had to search each php script for invocations of the modified account and posting script names.  The spam scripts are written to target thousands of sites.  I bet if each site were modified slightly, forum spam would cease to exist.

The spam script most likely searched for the string "Powered by SMF 1.1.8 | SMF © 2006-2008, Simple Machines LLC" at the bottom of the page and added this site to their list sent out to botnets.

hmmmm...

http://forums.dropbox.com/topic.php?id=17384&replies=24#post-157020

That sounds like a linux kernel module.  You may get it by recompiling the kernel modules by source or reinstalling the kernel modules themselves.  The modules are usually found in the installation tree if you want to untar and copy it over.

Unfortunately, I would have to take apart my running server which is hosting that picture to find out!  I did see from another picture on the internet and could make out a 22uF:

http://www.ronketti.org.uk/toasty.jpg

Not sure of the voltage, but it is on the high voltage side.  Might be 400 volts.  A higher voltage capacitor might be bigger, but will work fine.

From left to right: 1) 400V, 6.8uF, 2) 400V 22uF, 3) 1000uF, 10V....

Since these are filtering capacitors, substitutions can be made if the rated voltage exceeds the original.

edit: the one on the right is the most likely to fail.  When it vents, its capacitance drops to almost nothing.

Looks like the root partition may have been installed in another location, such as the sdcard.

Changed my vote, but really needed an option "replaced capacitors in a power supply that overheated, because it was wrapped around too many layers of covers and insulation."

Had great uptime until it started rebooting frequently on its own.  Now with a simple vent mod, it should last a lifetime.

An easy to find tarball of the source and configs would be mighty nice.

The best way to check the voltage from the power supply is with an oscilloscope.  A meter doesn't always catch tiny voltage spikes from a bad capacitor.

There is the fft-arm project, which appears to have died.

And there's the RVDS toolkit from ARM, which is $$$$$$$.

120 volts and one year.  The final output capacitor jetted its oil onto the board.  1000uF.  Replaced and its good as new. 

I also replaced the other two large capacitors since I had them.  But I added extra ventilation to keep the heat from destroying it again.

Some things to consider: 1) AA batteries have poor energy capacity.  If they held 1000mAhr, your Sheeva would last one hour.  2) AA batteries are unregulated.  Four AA's will give 6 volts.  Sheeva's likes 5 volts.  Will it boot?  Will it survive?  Will things attatched to the Sheeva's USB bus burst in flames?  3) USB power supplies average about 500mA.  The Sheeva really wants 4-5 times much that current on tap.  Too little current will trip the reset line and reboot.  4) Use the old power suppy connector as your guide.  Red positve, black negative.

But if you are going through all that trouble, I would just replace the toasted capacitor.  Mine tried to explode and got fat, so it was easy to see without testing.

Here's a picture of the old 1000uF blowout.  The safety vent on top failed and almost launched like a rocket.